copyright reserved 2011

copyright reserved 2011
Showing posts with label tools. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tools. Show all posts

Friday, 15 July 2011

au naturale in the garden


Home made sprays can be very poisonous and need to be labelled and stored appropriately. They will kill natural predators such as lacewings and ladybugs, so be careful where you spray and watch for over spray.

Keep out of reach of children.

Because of their toxicity and the likelihood of careless labelling, home made sprays should be mixed in small quantities and used immediately.

Home Made Garden Sprays

Aphids and Thrip – Can be controlled with soapy water, onion or garlic spray  and white oil.

Garlic Spray –Crush garlic cloves and steep in an equal quantity of vegetable oil for a week. Add some soap mixture and dilute 1 part mixture to 10 parts water. Store in a glass container.

Pikelet spray – For aphids, scale and caterpillars, mix together 1 tablespoon of white flour, a quarter cup of milk and 1 cup of water. Spray on leaves.

For Scab or Mildew:

Chive Spray – Use dried chives. Pour 600 ml boiling water over approximately 20g chives. Leave to stand for one hour. Strain. Dilute one part spray to 2 parts water.

Cabbage Moth Spray – 50g soft soap, 150g salt, 10 litres water.
Melt soap in water, add salt, strain through fine strainer to get rid of lumps of soap if you want to use tis in a pump spray. Liquid cleanser mat be used in place of soap.

Easy All-Purpose Insecticide Spray
Mix  1 bucket of water, a small packet of Epsom salts, 1 teaspoon Condy’s Crystals (all available from the chemist)

Rhubarb spray (all purpose) – Cut up one kilogram of rhubarb leaves and boil in two and a half litres of water for 30 minutes.
Grate 1/3 of a cake (60g) of pure soap into 3 ½ litres of boiling water to dissolve. When cool, mix together and strain for use . Bottle and label as very dangerous. I suggest that you make this one only for immediate use.

Snails and Slugs

Sawdust, shell grit or sand heaped around new plants will deter slugs and snails.
Bury tins up to the neck and put beer in the bottom, or just fill saucers with beer near new plants. Slugs and snails attracted to the beer. Empty every morning.

Cut the top and bottom off plastic bottles and place them around each new plant. Alternatively, use ice-cream or margarine containers to form a collar around the plants until they are large enough to lose their appeal to the snails.


Fill a shallow bowl with water and cover with a layer of natural bran. Snails will crawl into this thinking it is a solid fall down and drown.

Moss
To remove moss from path, mix equal parts of vinegar and methylated spirits. Apply with a scrubbing brush. Scrub well ten leave for 15 minutes. Scrub again with the mixture, leave another 15 minutes. Sweep with a broom.

To promote mossy growth on rocks or paths, tip milk over them.

Garden Tools
To prevent rust, clean tool after use and rub secateurs and cutting tools with petroleum jelly.

Quassia Chips
Use to deter possums.
To repel possums in the roof the chips can be spread around the area where they are entering the roof as well as throughout the roof cavity. Homemade Quassia spray is easily made and can also be sprayed around the roof cavity and entry points.
To repel possums in the garden
For ornamental plants you can spray on the leaves, stems and trunk of the plants, you can also do this on fruit trees avoiding any soft skinned fruit that is ready to be picked.
If you are protecting your edible herbs and vegetables from being the eaten it is best to spray to saturate the ground around the plants, if the quassia is sprayed on the foliage of your herbs and vegetables they will not only taste bitter to the possums but also to you!

Apply quassia spray for 5 days in a row. This should be long enough for the possum to realize that this is not the tasty treat that he thought it was. Re apply the quassia spray after rain or watering. If the possum comes back for more repeat the spray for another 5 days.
To make a spray to repel possums and insects
Add 25g quassia chips to 500ml water in a saucepan bring to the boil, turn heat down, cover with a lid and simmer for 30 minutes, strain and add 25ml liquid soap. This is then diluted 1part to 3 parts of water before use. Put in a spray bottle to apply to affected area.
Bucket method
You can also make a spray by soaking the chips in a bucket of tap water, use around 200g of quassia chips to a 9-10 litre bucket of water let them soak for 24 hours before straining off the bitter liquid. This can then be sprayed on the affected area.
Adding 5g of pure soap flakes per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Don't spray it on food crops less than a week before you consume it

Terracotta Pots
After cleaning and drying wipe over with linseed oil. Apply a second coat after an hour or so, and they should look like new again.

Concrete Paving
Cover stains with one part detergent to 6 parts kerosene. Hose off after 5-10 minutes.

Tuesday, 26 April 2011

Cleaning an Old Iron Tool

I decided that on this last day of the long Easter break that I should actually do something rather than sleep and socialise. I know, but actually doing something that makes my every day life easier is always a bonus for me. I also get to feel superior for a day or two (until I mess it up, again) and to gaze proudly upon my handiwork. I am sure that you have experienced that emotion from feeling like a superior person because of your efforts. Intrinsic reward some might call it!

So, I set to cleaning the "production" desk. It is the desk where I like to sit and play with my digital photographs and print various photographs that catch my fancy. Now, that we are running our own business, it is becoming more of a "work area" and less for play, so wiping away the dust of the last few months (years?) seemed like a positive step.

Digging through the forests of paper I came across an article by Rosalie Baker, that I printed out sometime in 2008! Let us not think about why it was sitting on the desk for almost three years, but let us focus on the content of the article, shall we?

The subject, as you have  no doubt guessed from the title of my post, is the cleaning of old iron tools. I doubt that many people have iron tools in their garden shed, these days, but there are some handy hints and I thought that you might find them interesting, if not helpful!



Baker starts with a warning that "no object can ever be brought back to its original form, since cleaning a surface always removes something. And, improper cleaning can even damage an object..."

We need:
A well ventilated area
plastic gloves
the tool (no jokes, please!)
pieces of 600-grit sandpaper
3 clean, soft cloths - not paper towels as they can scratch!
old rag
old toothbrush
toothpicks.

Paint thinner
Paste wax

Directions:
1.Use gloves as the acids, oils and salts on your hands can cause metal to rust.You will also be using chemicals.
2. Remember that cleaning is actually uniform scratching. Study the tool to see which way you want the scratches to go, as you want them as unnoticeable as possible.
3. Wet the surface of the tool with some paint thinner, and sand in an inconspicuous spot. If you like the look, continue. If the scratches seem to go the wrong way, try again.
4. Sand the entire object carefully. Do not oversand. Check your work as you go by wiping off the surface with the rag.
5. When you have finished sanding, pour a little paint thinner on a piece of cloth and clean the entire tool. Wipe with another clean cloth.
6. Let the tool dry overnight in a ventilated indoor area so that any moisture on the surface will evaporate.

7. Next day, use a brush or clean rag to apply a thin layer of paste wax. A thick layer will cause the tool to have a cloudy look. Let it dry to the touch. Do not pack it into holes or cracks. If you do, clean it out with the toothbrush or toothpicks.
8. Polish the surface to a shine with a clean cloth.
9. Apply a second layer of thin wax. Let it dry. Polish the tool again with the cloth. A third layer makes certain that no spots have been missed.

10. Repeat from step 5 if spots that appear to need more cleaning still remain, in those spots only.




Baker, Rosalie F. 2008. "Cleaning an Old Iron Tool", Calliope, Peterborough. 18:8: pg 41.