Managing Micronutrients : Iron, Magnesium, Boron

Iron (Fe)

Plants: Carrier of oxygen for the essential production of chlorophyll.

People: Central elements in haemoglobin and essential in the function of hundres of enzymes and proteins.

Magnesium (Mn)

Soil: More available in low pH soil and can be tied up in soils with high calcium or phosphorous.

Plants: Strongly support seed germination, fruiting and ripening. Important for nitrogen metabolism.

People: found in mitochondria and is a key component in energy metabolism.

Animals: Needed for normal growth and bone formation. Essential is reproductive health.

Boron (B) Boost

Soil: Humus is the boron storehouse, so if you don’t have good levels of organic matter you will probably have boron deficient soils. Calcium is the “trucker of all minerals” and boron is the “steering wheel”, so calcium will not work as well when boron is lacking.

Plants: Calcium can operate to full effect only if boron is present. Boron is also very important during the reproductive stage as it regulates flowering, pollination and the fruit to flower ratio. This is particularly important in fruit trees. A foliar spray just before flowering will supply boron and all other minerals at this critical time.

Deficiency Symptoms: Hollow stems in broccoli, woody texture in strawberries, flower and fruit drop in the orchard and poor seed set are all symptoms of boron deficiency. You may also see die back on passionfruit and grape vines.

People: This mineral also impacts calcium metabolism in humans. Boron influences the release of calcium into the blood and the absorption of calcium into our bones. Boron deficiency has also been strongly linked to arthritis and it is important in red blood cell development.

Animals: Boron has been used for over 30 years for the treatment of osteoporosis and osteoarthritis in farm animals and could also be used to treat these problems in pets.

Cleaning an Old Iron Tool

I decided that on this last day of the long Easter break that I should actually do something rather than sleep and socialise. I know, but actually doing something that makes my every day life easier is always a bonus for me. I also get to feel superior for a day or two (until I mess it up, again) and to gaze proudly upon my handiwork. I am sure that you have experienced that emotion from feeling like a superior person because of your efforts. Intrinsic reward some might call it!

So, I set to cleaning the "production" desk. It is the desk where I like to sit and play with my digital photographs and print various photographs that catch my fancy. Now, that we are running our own business, it is becoming more of a "work area" and less for play, so wiping away the dust of the last few months (years?) seemed like a positive step.

Digging through the forests of paper I came across an article by Rosalie Baker, that I printed out sometime in 2008! Let us not think about why it was sitting on the desk for almost three years, but let us focus on the content of the article, shall we?

The subject, as you have  no doubt guessed from the title of my post, is the cleaning of old iron tools. I doubt that many people have iron tools in their garden shed, these days, but there are some handy hints and I thought that you might find them interesting, if not helpful!

image 

Baker starts with a warning that "no object can ever be brought back to its original form, since cleaning a surface always removes something. And, improper cleaning can even damage an object..."

We need:
A well ventilated area
plastic gloves
the tool (no jokes, please!)
pieces of 600-grit sandpaper
3 clean, soft cloths - not paper towels as they can scratch!
old rag
old toothbrush
toothpicks.

Paint thinner
Paste wax

Directions:
1.Use gloves as the acids, oils and salts on your hands can cause metal to rust.You will also be using chemicals.
2. Remember that cleaning is actually uniform scratching. Study the tool to see which way you want the scratches to go, as you want them as unnoticeable as possible.
3. Wet the surface of the tool with some paint thinner, and sand in an inconspicuous spot. If you like the look, continue. If the scratches seem to go the wrong way, try again.
4. Sand the entire object carefully. Do not oversand. Check your work as you go by wiping off the surface with the rag.
5. When you have finished sanding, pour a little paint thinner on a piece of cloth and clean the entire tool. Wipe with another clean cloth.
6. Let the tool dry overnight in a ventilated indoor area so that any moisture on the surface will evaporate.

7. Next day, use a brush or clean rag to apply a thin layer of paste wax. A thick layer will cause the tool to have a cloudy look. Let it dry to the touch. Do not pack it into holes or cracks. If you do, clean it out with the toothbrush or toothpicks.
8. Polish the surface to a shine with a clean cloth.
9. Apply a second layer of thin wax. Let it dry. Polish the tool again with the cloth. A third layer makes certain that no spots have been missed.

10. Repeat from step 5 if spots that appear to need more cleaning still remain, in those spots only.




Baker, Rosalie F. 2008. "Cleaning an Old Iron Tool", Calliope, Peterborough. 18:8: pg 41.