copyright reserved 2011

copyright reserved 2011

Sunday, 14 August 2011

Acid soils? Your best vegetables choice.

Potatoes will help to break up the soil, while pumpkins, as we know will grow anywhere! Cucumbers are another good choice for clay soils. Both pumpkins and cucumbers have separate male and female flowers, but only the female flowers will develop fruit.

Beans are another good choice for clay soil as they make use of the nitrogen from the atmosphere and will greatly enrich the soil. And number five on our plant list for clay soils is sweet corn.


At the same time use a clay breaker such as Gyp-Life™ , Nutri-Gyp™ Natural Gypsum or Life-Force Base Blend™ , a living fertiliser to restore productive life to unproductive soils.

T he introduction of the “clay buster” in a liquid form such as Gyp-Life™ allows

 ease of application and more precision in placement. A high-analysis source of 

micronised natural gypsum combined in a free-flowing suspension with fulvic acid. 

The soil conditioning capacity of gypsum is dramatically magnified with the huge

 increase in surface area associated with a tiny 5 micron particle size.



bringing in the harvest!

We have started to harvest the first vegetables from our raised garden bed! It was with more than a little pride and a lot of bragging that I cut a bok choy and a lettuce late this afternoon. I had to hurry a little as a storm was coming in, with the full lightning and thunder chorus, but it was been weeks since we have had any rain, so it was a welcome sign. It did rain, but not as much as we would have liked. Maybe more tomorrow.

We had the bok choy for dinner tonight, and the lettuce will be part of my lunch tomorrow. Fresh, organic loveliness!

Saturday, 6 August 2011

Managing microbes in your soil.



Conventional gardening is an input driven system. The accepted wisdom is to apply an unbalanced fertiliser to an unbalanced soil to help sustain a state of imbalance, which will then require constant chemical intervention. This serves no one except the chemical companies.

Success in gardening is more knowledge driven than input driven. Once we accept that there is a direct relationship between nutrition and pest and disease pressure, then we can look to the causes rather than just treating symptoms.

Pride, satisfaction, purpose and passion is what makes gardening a pleasure. Gardening with nature is exciting, and rewarding.  It is simply fascinating!

The most basic requirement for a healthy garden is to have healthy soil.  Healthy HUMUS! If organic carbon (humus) is declining then your garden and its plants will struggle as well.

So what is organic matter, this humus? Soil tests measure organic matter, and a rough organic carbon equivalent is derived by dividing the organic matter figure by 1.7.  In actual fact, the organic matter, as measured on most soil tests, is actually a combination of three different materials – raw organic matter, effective humus and stable humus.

Raw organic matter consists of plant or crop residues, manures and a variety of decomposing  organisms. It has a valuable function and it provides food for microorganisms  but it can create nitrogen lock-ups, as the nitrogen is tied up as protein in the bodies of the microbes doing the work.

Effective humus is the next stage in the decomposition process. This material contains a large percentage of fulvic acid. It is a dark brown, colloidal material which increases cation exchange capacity and reduces the loss of leachable anions. Effective humus provides nutrients to microbes  as it decomposes and it is a storehouse of beneficial microbial metabolites including hormones, vitamins and antibiotic substances. At this point though, it is not a stable habitat for microorganisms.

Stable humus is the completed product. It consists mostly of long-chained humic acids or humans bonded to clay particles. It is now a homogenous material which is resistant to chemical action. The dark brown colour improves heat retention by the seed and it acts like a carbon filter, protecting plants and microbes (and eventually humans) from toxic substances. Stable humus provides long-term nutrient storage and it is the principal of microbial habitat. 

canary in the coal mine


Once you start loving nature not in the abstract but as particular thing, you can't help wanting to do something. And because birds are everywhere, on every continent, they are such a good measure of whether an ecosystem is healthy. So if you try to do something for them, you end up doing something for the whole ecosystem.
Jonathan Franzen, author  and birdwatcher,  Weekend Australian Review, August 6-7, 2011, p6.

Franzen's words are incredibly true. I know that since I have grown older and my connection to the earth and nature has deepened that I view my world differently . I care more, and I appreciate my environment more. I nurture it more.

We have a garden that is a happy haven for birds, and without a domestic cat in residence, the birds are safe in the tree branches. In recent years, I have really experienced some wonderful moments, watching the birds in our garden. Even as I lie in my bed, I can watch birds in the tree branches outside the window. Better than any stress medication!

Graham Pizzey  suggested the following trees for Australian gardens:

Eucalypts: These trees often have hollows in their trunk or in branch forks which provide shelter and nesting sites for many birds. Some eucalypts especially attractive to birds include:   E. planchoniana - medium-sized tree to 25m which attracts birds with its cream-coloured flowers. E. pyriformis - small tree with large and heavy red or yellow flowers. Grows to 5m.
Banksias: Most banksias are found to be attractive to birdlife especially to honeyeaters. There are banksias that will grow in most parts of Australia. Some examples are: B. 'Giant Candles' - a cultivar with large orange flower spikes which can grow to 40cm in length. B. spinulosa - a smallish shrub to 1.5m with orange-yellow flowers. It is often laden with flowers in winter.
Grevilleas: Many species of grevilleas are highly attractive to birds because of the nectar produced by the flowers. Some of these include:  Grevillea alpina - shrub to 2m which has flowers present for most of the year except autumn. Best in cooler zones, particularly southern Australia. G. asparagoides - prickly shrub to 1m which also makes a good screening plant. G. beardiana - a small shrub (to 60cm) with clusters of red flowers. G. 'Boongala Spinebill' - honeyeaters are very attracted to the red toothbrush-like flowers on this sprawling shrub.
G. 'Honey Gem'

G. 'Honey Gem' - a tall shrub with apricot flowers. Grows to 6m tall. Excellent plant to attract native, nectar feeding birds. G. 'Ivanhoe' - a dense shrub good for screening. Has attractive foliage and red flowers which feature for most of the year. G. robusta - the silky oak, a tall growing tree which flowers in spring with golden nectar-laden flowers. This tree is too large for a small to medium garden. G. shiressii (Mullet Creek grevillea) - shrub to 3m with blue-green flowers during winter and spring. 
link

Tuesday, 2 August 2011

a smorgasbord

creator unknown
John William Waterhouse

Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished. -- Lao Tzu


Land Girls by Dunbar circa 1941


August: vegetable planting guide – Australian zones


August planting – Australian zones

Subtropical and warm temperate climates planning guide

Amaranth spinach
Arrowroot
Artichoke (Globe)
Asian cabbages
Asian salad greens
Asparagus
Beetroot
Capsicum
Carrots
Cassava
Celery
Celery-stem taro
Chicory
Chilli
Chrysanthemum greens
Coffee
Cucumber
Eggplant
Egyptian Spinach
Garden Sorrel
Hibiscus Spinach
Horseradish
Jicama
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Mangel wurzel
Nasturtium
Okra
Perilla
Peruvian parsnip
Pineapple
Potatoes
Pumpkin
Radish
Rocket
Silver beet
Surinam spinach
Sweet potato
Taro
Tea
Tomatoes
Vietnamese mint
Warrigal greens
Water spinach
Watercress
Yacon
Zucchini

Tropical climate planting guide
Amaranth spinach
Arrowhead
Arrowroot
Asian cabbages
Asian salad greens
Asparagus
Beans
Beetroot
Capsicum
Carrots
Cassava
Cauliflower
Celery
Celery-stem taro
Chicory
Chilli
Chrysanthemum greens
Coffee
cucumber
Eggplant
English spinach
Garden Sorrel
Hibiscus spinach
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Mangel wurzel
Nasturtium
Okra
Pineapple
Potatoes
Pumpkin
Radish
Rocket
Rockmelon
Silver beet
Strawberry
Surinam spinach
Sweet corn
Sweet leaf
Sweet potato
Taro
Tea
Tomatoes
Vietnamese mint
Warrigl greens
Water spinach
Yams

Temperate and cool climates planting guide

Artichoke (Globe and Jerusalem)
Asian cabbages
Asparagus
Broad beans
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Cauliflower
Celeriac
Celery
Chicory
Endive
French sorrel
Garden sorrel
Garlic
Kale
Kohlrabi
Onions
Parsnip
Peas
Radish
Rhubarb
Spinach
Swede
Tomatoes

Dry Temperate (Mediterranean) climate planting guide

Arrowroot
Artichoke (globe)
Artichoke (Jerusalem)
Asian salad greens
Asparagus
Beans
Broccoli
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celeriac
Celery
Endive
Garlic
Kale
Kohlrabi
Mangel wurzel
Moringa
Onions
Peas
Perilla
Radish
Rhubarb
Silverbeet
Spinach
Swede
Turnip
Watercress

Semi-arid and arid climates planting guide

Arrowroot
Artichoke (globe)
Artichoke (Jerusalem)
Asian cabbages
Asian salad greens
Asparagus
Beans
Beetroot
Broccoli
Cabbage
Capsicum
Cassava
Cauliflower
Celery
Chicory
Eggplant
Garden Sorrel
Garlic
Kale
Kohlrabi
Lettuce
Mangel Wurzel
Nasturtium
Onions
Peas
Perilla
Peruvian parsnip
Radish
Rocket
Silver beet
Squash
Strawberry
Swede
Tomatoes
Turnip
Watercress
Zucchini